you guys have no idea how excited I am
to finally put together this wheel set this is gonna be a lot of fun it’s going
together in the exact color combo that I’ve been dreaming about for a while all
right here is what I’m working with I’ve got a setup black tusk rims stock hubs
that I powder-coated and then a tusk spoke in nipple set and the nipples I
sent off to get anodized pretty cool-looking stuff before I get started
I’ve got to give it up to Rocky Mountain atv/mc they are a big part of this build
if you have not checked out Rocky Mountain yet you are missing out they’ve
got everything you could ever imagine for your dirt bike
street bike quad or UTV and OAM parts and aftermarket and personally I’ve been
shopping to them for over 10 years now and I would not want to go anywhere else
so Rocky Mountain provided the rims spoke set and bearings for these wheels
and you guys know how it works they support what I do
so go support them so the website is Rocky Mountain atv/mc calm and I’ll put
it as the first link down below and also all the tools I’m using throughout the
video are from Rocky Mountain as well so I’ll link those down below too
all right I’m gonna begin with the rear wheel the first step is to separate the
spokes most wheels have two different lengths of spoke or a different angle in
the spoke for this particular wheel there is a shorter spoke and a longer
spoke so as you can see there’s a spoke that’s just a little bit longer than the
other one and that’s gonna make a big difference when lacing the wheel all right I’ve got an equal amount of
each spoke time to start lacing to begin the wheel lacing process you want to
start with the numbers on the rim facing down on this rim the numbers are stamped
here on the outside but on most rims they are here on the inside of the lip
so I’ve got the numbers here and I’m gonna place the rim with them facing
down and then for the hub the brake rotor side is gonna be facing down as
well to begin the lacing process I’ve got the longer the spokes and I’m gonna
feed them through the inside holes on the hub here and the inside holes are
the ones closer to the center of the hub so these ones right here now I’ve got the shorter spokes and
these are gonna go on the outside holes and these spokes go on top of the inner
spokes so when you slide it through the hub it is going to sit on top of the
spokes we put in previously now it is time the start line the spokes
up with the holes on the rim on the rim there are spoke holes that are angled
down and holes that are angled up I’m gonna be shooting for the holes that are
angled up and those will line up with the spokes coming from this side of the
hub and like I mentioned earlier you want to make sure all your upper spokes
are on top of the inner spokes so it is pretty simple to start lining the spokes
up when you have spokes crossed like this
we’re gonna have a spoke hole that is in between them it’s gonna pull the spokes
up to the rim and it is pretty easy to see which spokes go where and one really
important step when you’re building wheels is to apply some anti-seize
lubricant to the threads that will keep the spokes in good shape for a long time during this step I’m gonna thread on the
spoke nipples and tell there’s about two threads left on each spoke so I want all
them to be pretty even and doing that will make the trimming process go a
little smoother alright I’ve got the wheel laced up on
one side just gonna flip it over and follow the same steps again I’m gonna
start with the longer spokes on the inside and the shorter spokes on the
outside and as I’m feeding these longer inner spokes in it’s gonna let them hang
and that’ll give me a room to get the outer spokes into place if I feed the
inner spokes through the holes on the rim before lacing the outer spokes it’s
gonna be tough to get those outer spokes in and of course going to apply some
anti-seize to all the spoke threads on this side I find the easiest to put
the outer spoke in first that way it’s out of the way for the inner spoke and I’m gonna do the same thing on this
side as well thread the nipples on to the spoke until there’s about two
threads remaining as I’m working my way towards the last
couple spokes it’s gonna be a little bit harder to feed them through the holes on
the rim so what I’ll do here is slide the spoke back a little bit in the hub
and pull it up into place thread the nipple on and once I thread
the nipple down that will pull the spoke into position and I’m gonna show you one
last time on the last spoke here I’m gonna slide it up a little bit in the
hub lined it up with the hole on the rim pull it up and then thread the nipple on and once you start threading the nipple
on the spoke will find its place well guys I’ve got the wheel all laced up and
she is looking pretty sweet and the front wheel is gonna be much of the same
so I’m gonna get both wheels laced up before I start any truing now I’m gonna
bust out the front wheel the only difference being the spokes on the front
are the same no need to separate them the spoke pattern on this front wheel is
gonna be a bit different than it was on the rear you have two spokes coming out
of the hub that cross there’s gonna be five holes on the rim in between the
spokes compared to you one on the rear and if you end up lacing it like the
rear wheel with one spoke hole in between you’ll end up with spokes that
are way too long and they’ll be poking out of the rim I’ve got both wheels laced up and all
the spoke nipples are threaded down until there’s about two threads
remaining on each now it’s time to tighten down the spokes a little bit
more in an even pattern and it’s definitely necessary to have a spoke
wrench for this step the wrench I use is from Rocky Mountain and it’s got
interchangeable tips on it so it works on pretty much every bike out there I’ll
link it down below so how I’m gonna go about tightening the spokes in an even
pattern is I’m gonna pick a hole in the rim I’m gonna choose this one right here
it is for the rim lock or the tube and then I’ll start at this spoke here give
it a few turns skip two spokes tighten this one skip two you tighten all the
way around until I come back to that hole and then I’ll move to the second
spoke follow that same pattern around and then move on to the third spoke and
once you go three revolutions around the wheel you will have hit every spoke and
you’ll have a nice even tighten on all the spokes alright for this step I’m
going to tighten each spoke until I feel just a little bit of pressure being
applied to the rim and right about there feels good man these wheels are rad looking turning
out exactly like I’d imagined and now for the funnest part of all true in them
up I’ll be using this tusk chirring stand that picked up from rocky mountain
a couple years ago alright to mount the wheel up on the truing stand i’m just
gonna slide the axle through the bearings on the wheel and then on this
side we’ve got the collar it slides on and goes into the bearing so these two
pieces should be tight against the bearings here and that’ll hold the wheel
firmly on the stand and then once the colors are tight against the bearing
tighten them down and the wheel is locked into place alright let’s take a
look how the wheel is balanced already got a little side-to-side action and a
little up and down as well the first thing I’m gonna focus on is the
side-to-side movement in the wheel to correct the side-to-side movement to the
wheel I’ll be using this indicator bar here it’s gonna slide it down till it’s
about level with the rim what I’ve got to figure out is exactly where the wheel
is out of true I’m gonna spin the wheel until the indicator bar makes contact
with the rim so right about there that’s where it starts making contact
spinning it around and then it stops right about there so
we’ve got a good seven or eight spokes here where the wheel is pulled to this
side here and to correct that I’m gonna loosen the spokes coming from the left
side of the hub and then tighten the spokes coming from the right side so it
doesn’t really take that much of a turn to make a difference I’m just gonna
loosen half a turn on each one of these spokes coming from the left side and
then tighten half a turn on the spokes coming from the right side so to give
this a little more explanation if you have a wheel that’s out of true and
moving towards the left side you’re gonna want to tighten the spokes coming
from the right side of the hub here so these spokes would be angled towards the
right and then loosen the spokes coming from the left side of the hub so the key
I found with wheel truing is patience just give each spoke a little bit of a
turn and don’t go overboard with it this scares me every time when I go to
tighten the spoke it looks like the anodizing is starting to chip off but
it’s just the anti-seize that’s on the nipple and wipes just wipes right off before I get too carried away with
truing the wheel I need to measure the rim to hub distance so this is the
distance from the rim to the mounting surface here on the hub I’ll need to lay
the wheel flat on the workbench here to measure that I’m gonna take the
measurement right here and the recommended spec is 27 millimeters or a
little over an inch we’re looking at an inch and 3/16 right now so a little bit
more than what they recommend I’m gonna have to adjust this and how I’m gonna go
about adjusting the gap here is loosening up some of the spokes and then
simply pushing down on the rim to get that clearance just a little bit smaller this probably would have been wise to do
when the spokes were a little more loose but there’s always that one step you
forget go all the spokes somewhat loosened up it’s gonna push down on the
rim and that should close the gap up right here moved a little bit
I have to loose up the spokes just a tad bit more now give this another shot all right
that’s right where it should be it’s at an inch and a sixteenth toss the wheel
back up on the truing stand and get this thing all trued up and it’s always a
good idea to flip the wheel around on the stand that way you’re not chewing
from one side and throwing that hub the wheel distance out of whack again so for side-to-side movement in the
wheel this is about as close as I’m gonna get it
we’ve gotta remember it’s a dirt bike and you’re riding it on rough terrain
and having a perfectly balanced wheel isn’t absolutely necessary now I’m gonna
check for up and down movement to the wheel looks like I’ve got a little bit
that needs to be corrected here how I’m gonna correct the up-and-down movement
is by locating the highest spot on the wheel so I’ve got the indicator bar here
on the edge of the wheel and I’m just gonna spin it around until it makes
contact with the rim so right there it’s making contact and this is the highest
spot on the rim so to correct this I’m gonna tighten a few spokes here on the
high spot and a turn that will pull this side of the rim towards the hub fixing
that high spot and like I was saying earlier it doesn’t really take a whole
lot of turns to make a difference I’m just gonna go about a half a turn at a
time there’s still somewhat of a high spot
right here just gonna tighten a few more of these spokes one thing to keep in mind as you’re
correcting the up-and-down movement to the wheel is to periodically check the
side to side make sure that’s not going out of whack alrighty guys they’ve got
the wheel spinning as straight as an arrow just gonna do a final tightening
on the spokes and the front wheel will be done I’ll be using the same pattern I
described earlier for tightening the spokes evenly so starting out a hole on
the rim let’s find the hole here okay right here starting at this spoke right
here I’m gonna tighten skip to tighten go all the way around three times and
every spoke will have been tightened and checked over so I’ve got all the spokes tightened
down and as far as how tight they need to be the manual recommends 2.7
foot-pounds so not really a whole lot of torque I don’t use a torque wrench on
wheels or I should say I use the torque wrench that’s in my arm pretty much just
go by feel so if I had to explain what 2.7 foot-pounds should feel like it
should be about the same amount of torque you’re applying to the bolts for
your plastic so definitely don’t be wrenching on it too hard
all right the front wheel is all done and no need to walk you through the
process on the rear it’s exactly the same I’ll just show you a few clips as
I’m truing up the rear wheel wheels are all finished up and I am more
than stoked with the end result everything went together so smoothly
with this set if you guys have any reservations about using tusk wheels let
me just say I put over a hundred hours on a set a couple years ago and I didn’t
run into one single issue definitely Sall components again big big thank you
to Rocky Mountain for all the support to check out the parts and all the tools I
use throughout the video click the links down below one more thing stay tuned for
the next video coming out pretty soon here I’ve got some fresh rubber back
here that Rocky Mountain sent over and I’ll be making this wheel set complete
as always thank you so much for watching and I will see you soon