welcome back guys got a good video for
you today been wanting to do a really comprehensive video on how to clean and
polish up metal parts on a dirt bike or really anything for that matter so
whether you’ve got aluminum stainless steel or steel this is the video for you
so there’s a couple different ways you can clean up metal you can give it just
a nice clean simple look or you can do like a brushed look or you can go for
fully polished and make it look like chrome so I’m gonna cover all that in
today’s video now the first thing I’m gonna cover is how to clean the part
without damaging the metal now this particular part is made of aluminum now
all these steps will be the same for anything made of steel stainless steel
or aluminum like this so a product I’ve found that works really good for
cleaning up metal and doesn’t damage the substrate itself is the simple green
degreaser you get at Home Depot or Amazon so I just mix it 50/50 with water
and a spray bottle and it seems to do the trick so I’ll just spray the part
down let it soak for a few minutes and then just give her a little scrub down
all that should just wipe away so that degreaser ripped all that dirt and grime
off pretty good still a little bit of crustiness with
scrapes no whatnot but if you simply just want to clean up your part and give
it a bright shine a product that works really good as well
is this Eagle one cleaning foam doesn’t work quite as good as the old Magpul
cleaner but still pretty effective so let’s give it a shot so this stuff you
just spray it on let it soak for a few minutes and scrub it around and rinse it
off looks like I’ve brightened it up pretty
good now another option for cleaning and shining up metal is vapor blasting or
some people call it wet blasting it’s similar to sandblasting but you use
water with the abrasive and it works really good at cleaning up and it leaves
a nice shine on the part to you now I don’t have one of those units but hoping
to get one pretty soon after cleaning this thing up I realize this kind of
coat of paint on it looks like a clear coat now typically these don’t come from
the factory with any sort of paint but either way I’m gonna take it to the next
level and clean it up on the bench grinder should be able to get all of
this crustiness off of here now what I’ll be using on the bench grinder is
this cleaning pad similar to scotch brite but it’s reinforced so that way it
doesn’t just shred apart and it’s also embedded with abrasive so it works
really well I’ll show you guys after a few minutes on the bench grinder
got this triple clamp looking pretty sweet it’s actually a ton of fun buffing
away like 25 years of crustiness so what I’m using here is a like a finer pad
find their grit pad if you were compare it to use sandpaper I would say it’s
probably some around 4 or 500 grit sandpaper but when you’re using it you
want to be really careful around sharp edges like right here or up near the
mouths if you catch it on that you’ll kind of tear the pad and then when
you’re finishing off the part you want to work in the same direction to give it
a nice consistent look so say on the back here you want to work from one end
to the other like that just so it’s not a spotty finish now if you have a part
that has some scrapes or wearing it like this one we have a little nick right
there on the sides it’s a little bit wavy and on the front there’s somewhere
from a cable we can use a more aggressive pad to smooth that out so
what I have here is a little bit more aggressive type pad so I’ll show you
what we can do with this so the course pad smooth out those pits
pretty good can’t really even tell they were ever there
smooth now that pit we had over here too as well as the cable we’re on the front
of the triple clamp made it nice and smooth now to blend this in with the
rest of the clamp we can go back to the finer pad oh and by the way this course
pad is gonna be pretty close to about 120 grit sandpaper all right I’ve got
those areas blended in turned out super nice check that out now that I’ve got
you guys all sold on what you can do with a buffer machine let me show you a
few options here so this is the unit I’ve been using it is a Baldur believe
it’s a three-quarter horsepower two-speed so 3,600 rpm and 1800 rpm
super nice unit it’s gonna last you a lifetime but they are pretty spendy and
believe they’re around 800 and so I decided to test a cheaper unit here this
is a half horsepower 1/2 inch shaft still with the extended shaft so you can
get you know parts in there like this one you got plenty of clearance to work
on parts so anyways bought this one Amazon for 60
bucks paid 30 for the stand and I’ve been testing it out for you guys and see
if they actually hold that see if it’s a good option and so far so good like it’s
been a really solid unit and no issues thus far so I will link this motor down
below for you guys as well as this one if you want to go super heavy-duty just
to give you a couple options oh and by the way the stand for this one was from
Harbor Freight alright for pads I’ve got a couple different options here
like I said I have a finder pad in a course pad so this is the course pad
we’re using to smooth out those scratches and the fine pad is for like a
finishing kind of touch to it so these are eight inch pads they work
really good on a bigger machine like this and for the smaller machine I have
six inch pads on here you can run the 8 inch pads on here although with heavy
use the motor might bog down a little bit and then one thing you can do to
make these pads last a little bit long is stack them on the buffer so do like
too wide or three wide that’ll create a little wider path and then if you’re
using them on something like a sewer arm like we have here the finish will
actually be a bit more consistent to when you have a little bit more surface
area there so the only difference between the eight-inch pads and 6-inch
pads is the six-inch pads aren’t gonna last quite as long
obviously with them being smaller we’re going to wear down quicker and also
these ones are cheaper so gets you in the game without investing quite as much
so you can buy these pads as a set with the fine and the coarse or just
individually or packs of three many different options so I will link all
these pads down below in the description now say if you’re working with a part
that was super intricate had a bunch of tight areas that you couldn’t get those
scotch-brite wheels into you like down here let me show you what I would do
there so this is called a dremel and it’s got a scotch-brite
attachment on it found these little things on Amazon they’re pretty cheap
but they wear out pretty quick although they do do the trick now at this point triple clamp looks
pretty good I’d be pretty stoked with it just a nice clean finish but believe it
or not there’s actually more steps we can take with this so if you want to
smooth out all these casting lines like these lands right here make the clamp
look like a billet piece we can do that with a different product on the buffer
alright so what we got here is a flat wheel but this isn’t like your Grandpa’s
flat wheel this thing is pretty sweet so it’s got flaps of sandpaper which are 80
grit and then in between each piece of sandpaper is scotch brite so essentially
what this is going to do is shape the metal you can smooth out all these lines
these things are pretty freakin sweet let me get it on the buffer so you can see pretty quickly that flap
wheel remove the casting line and just smooth this thing out
right there that looks like a billet piece so I’m going to attack the whole
triple clamp get rid of all these casting lines here and just kind of the
deformation over time now you could remove all the casting lines with the
rougher wheel like I did here although what I found with that wheel if
you try to do too much with it you end up with a little bit of a wavy surface
like we do the whole clamp you’ll notice it gets a little wavy whereas with this
wheel it keeps it really smooth and doesn’t warp the surface at all man that flap will really smooth out
those casting lines good everything looks nice and tidy now obviously you
don’t want to get too crazy in areas like this and start removing too much
material say if I were to smooth out this piece right here I think that
probably removed too much material and might cause some issues with strength
but just for some light material removal these flap wheels work pretty good now
to blend in those areas I just buffed out I’m gonna use the finer pad to give
it that nice shine like we have right here and just for a little more
flexibility I do have these mini wheels that go on the air grinder same concept
it’s got scotch brite in between the sandpaper
so it allows you to get in tighter areas like this right here or if you want to
use it on a concentrated area that has like a deep scratch or a scrape like
this Kickstarter here we would be able to use it to blend that out right there so that only took what like a minute to
do pretty quick smooth it out nice you can see there’s still a little dip right
there don’t want to remove too much Michelle here just so I don’t weaken the
Kickstarter but yeah that flap will rip right through smooth it out and left a
good finish so this is the point where I would typically stop I absolutely loved
brush look hard to beat that but there’s actually a few more things we could do
to this to make it look even better now I know we were kind of all over the
place when we were prepping this thing but to rewind it kind of simplify things
to bring it to this point I would first start with a rough wheel to knock off
the the big edges the big scrapes and scratches and whatever then bust out the
flap wheel I really smooth it out give it that nice uniform look get the rough
wheel back on the bench grinder to smooth out these scratches from this
wheel with a flat wheel and then finally get the fine wheel mounted up and give
this thing a nice brushed look so that’s pretty sweet-looking but the next step
we’re gonna go with this is to give it a mere shine you might want to get your
sunglasses on for this step guys now keep in mind before we polish this thing
out we’ll need to make sure there’s no pits or scratches anywhere so for
example these ones right here will stick out like a sore thumb once we have this
thing all buffed out so we’re going to use the rough and the fine cleaning
wheels just smooth all that out perfectly alright we’ve got it all
smoothed out looking good we’re ready for the next step now in order to bring
this to a mirror shine we’re gonna use a couple different wheels and compounds
here so the first step is a sown wheel so it’s got sown all these sewn sections
in it pretty stiff wheel I’m going to combine that with a Tripoli compound and
then for the final step I’m going to use what’s called a loose cotton wheel just
a loose section here along with a white Roush compound let’s get this stuff on
the buffer and see what we can do this thing is looking pretty sharp even
after just the first stage got some Rouge still left on there but yeah that
is beautiful so now it’s on to the second stage we’ll be using the white
compound and loose section buffing wheel so the buffing parts pretty simple kind
of show you what I’m doing here so I’m putting the Rouge or the compound on the
wheel about every 30 seconds or a minute this thing is getting pretty glazed over
and we use a rake on it to freshen it back up and then to cut the part or to
like smooth it out more aggressively you want to move the part upward against the
direction of the wheel and then to shine the part you want to go with the
direction that wheel so that’s pretty much all it takes just some elbow grease
and a little bit of technique all righty guys we are all finished up
with polishing it’s all gooped up with fingerprints and Rouge right now but
holy crap that thing is freaking beautiful basically like a mirror so to
finish it off get all that Rouge off of there I will be using some aluminum
polish here by mothers along with a cotton towel that should give a nice
little shine and protect it we’re all done buffing her out man this
thing looks frickin sweet so stoked on how it came out definitely not my style
to have something chrome like that but for the sake of project it was a lot of
fun to bring you guys through the process of transforming an old pile of
crap triple clamps I’m 25 years old and crusty into something like this it’s a
ton of fun and I would recommend you guys pick up a set of pads pick up a set
of buffing wheels whatever it is and get your hands dirty it is an absolute blast
and one last thing I was going to talk about here is protecting the finish so
whether you have something that is polished out like this or the brushed
look we had earlier it is important to protect it or do something to maintain
that finish so with this you can either use a Polish just keep up on it with
some mothers or do a clear coat if you have something steel you’re definitely
going to need to clear coat it or protect it somehow or also rust with
stainless steel no worries there you don’t need to protect it or anything but
for this honestly if I were keeping it this way I would just leave it bare keep
up on it with mothers to clear coat it you’re gonna end up with a little bit of
haze there and if it starts chipping off it’s a mess now if you have a brushed
look it’s easy to keep up on it just with a set of pads you know you can just
grab a a pad and touched up by hand and besides that just that keep your bike
clean and the aluminum will stay in good shape oh one one last thing I was going
to show you guys here if you have something stainless steel like this you
can easily prep it up like that or do a brush look so this is the Restall
bracket that I sell for the CRS so this is how it comes from the manufacturer
just kind of a plain rough steel so I’m going to take it over to bench grinder
and show you guys what we can do with it and this is actually how I prep these
brackets the salad so you can make stainless look pretty
sweet too after a quick little buff I’ve got a nice brushed look to it
and what’s nice is this stuff never rust or corrode
so that’s pretty much it for today’s project I’d be an idiot if I didn’t talk
to you guys about safety equipment so you definitely want to wear a respirator
wear some eye protection or some gloves maybe some hearing protection not
completely necessary and then also if you’re gonna be doing lots of buffing I
would recommend some sort of exhaust system like a fan or just some sort of
ventilation there now to wrap up this video I’m gonna make it easy on you guys
and link every single thing we use throughout this video down below in the
description so if you guys want to take on a project like this it’ll be pretty
straightforward and you’ll know what to buy it so that includes every single
buffing wheel all the compounds polish these flap wheels Dremel Dremel
attachments safety equipment every single thing will be linked down below
and the quick heads up some of the products I use today are from my own
company prime MX that includes the cleaning pads and the flap wheels I
think that’s pretty much it but if you like to support the channel go pick up
some of that stuff that’s it for this video guys thank you so much for
watching and I hope you all get out in the shop and get your hands dirty after
seeing this one honestly there’s no better way to customize your bike and
add some personal touch then polish it up some parts and cleaning things up
besides that it’s it’s pretty cheap do too so once again thank you for watching
and I will see you in the next one keep it Prime